Posts Tagged ‘animals’

A short river stop back in the Chittagong Hill Tracts

Sunday, November 22nd, 2009

At some point in the late afternoon during our boat ride up the Karnaphuli River, the captain decided we should stop and turn back even though we hadn’t quite reached Kaptai Lake. Before we began our long journey back to Chittagong however we enjoyed a short break on land in the Chittagong Hill Tracts. I’m not sure where we stopped or if it had a name – it wasn’t really a village so much as a roadside restaurant and lookout – but I did have my GPS recorder on for the whole journey.

GPS track of our boat ride on the Karnaphuli River, Bangladesh on November 7, 2009.

We were only there for about a half hour – just long enough to take a short walk up the road and back and then photograph some poor monkeys chained up on a bench as well as an old man breaking bricks in the magical late afternoon light.

Karnaphuli River, Bangladesh (Nov 7, 2009)

Photo taken off the Karnaphuli River, Bangladesh on November 7, 2009.

I wish we could have spent longer exploring, and I wish Catie and I could have explored on our own at all really – we had a couple of the boat crew hovering over us most of the time and basically treating us like children (yelling at us to catch up and stay close whenever we lingered too far behind). It was nice to stretch our legs anyway and I was happy with the few images I got. I just love the Chittagong Hill Tracts: the color, the light, the solitude and the smells. I need to find more excuses to get out there.

Karnaphuli River, Bangladesh (Nov 7, 2009)
Karnaphuli River, Bangladesh (Nov 7, 2009)
Karnaphuli River, Bangladesh (Nov 7, 2009)
Karnaphuli River, Bangladesh (Nov 7, 2009)
Karnaphuli River, Bangladesh (Nov 7, 2009)
Karnaphuli River, Bangladesh (Nov 7, 2009)
Karnaphuli River, Bangladesh (Nov 7, 2009)
Karnaphuli River, Bangladesh (Nov 7, 2009)
Karnaphuli River, Bangladesh (Nov 7, 2009)
Karnaphuli River, Bangladesh (Nov 7, 2009)
Karnaphuli River, Bangladesh (Nov 7, 2009)

Photos taken off the Karnaphuli River, Bangladesh on November 7, 2009.

Tiger Hill lookout

Friday, November 13th, 2009

The most arduous trek of the weekend was on our second day when we made the steep climb from our resort up to the lookout at Tiger Hill. Denise had the ingenious idea of wearing the same clothes that had gotten so disgusting with sweat from the day before. We all followed suit and were thankful we had, since a fourth of the way to the peak that was our destination I’m pretty sure we were all once again drenched in our own perspiration.

Once we reached the lookout that sits atop Tiger Hill, I had to take a few minutes to catch my breath and drink as much water as I could justify rationing myself right then (considering a good deal more trekking we had planned for the day). The view in all directions was spectacular, but true to my usual form I only took a few photos of it and didn’t really like any of them. I was more interested in the plateau itself: the local people who ran a small shop or two and were making lunch, the goat that wandered about, resting in the shade and eating bits of grass from time to time, the colorful swing that Catie found, and most photographically alluring of all – the men who were working on the foundation for a new structure next to the existing lookout.

Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 31, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 31, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 31, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 31, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 31, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 31, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 31, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 31, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 31, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 31, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 31, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 31, 2009)

Photos taken in Bandarban, Bangladesh on October 31, 2009.

Walking around Bandarban

Wednesday, November 11th, 2009

On the first day, after our trek through the jungle and the river boat ride, we spent the rest of the afternoon walking through the large town in Bandarban and on through what I might call the “suburbs” to a Buddhist temple. This was a fun pedestrian journey as the town provided a lot to look at – including people, goods and shops, and general ‘bustle’ – and in the more rural area there were countless children excited to see a white man with a camera, not to mention beautiful green fields and livestock.

One amusing moment occurred when I was photographing a small group of boys on the side of the road. It was clear from their body language that they were gunning for a photograph, and I was happy to comply. When I lifted my camera to my face they got pretty giggly and started goofing around, continuously trying to push one another into the background and make themselves the front-and-center star of the composition.

Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)

Photo taken in Bandarban, Bangladesh on October 30, 2009.

I took a few like that and then I heard a man nearby on their side of the road tell the kids “Hey! Get in a line!”, at which point the boys quickly got their act together and maturely stood in a single row so that everyone could be clearly seen.

Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)

Photo taken in Bandarban, Bangladesh on October 30, 2009.

My personal preference would be for the first ’style’, but I like both photos and in this particular case I actually think the composition worked out better in the orderly line image. The experience though was just another funny installment in the ongoing game of “What do Bangladeshi men want in pictures of kids?”. Clearly the answer this time favors simple unobstructed visibility over spontaneous fun or candid moments. To each his own!

Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)

Photos taken in Bandarban, Bangladesh on October 30, 2009.

Escape to jungle paradise at Hillside Resort

Tuesday, November 10th, 2009

Catie and I recently benefited from the proactive planning and action of some friends at AUW as we got to join them for a weekend in Bandarban, a district which is a couple hours outside of the city and part of the Chittagong Hill Tracts. The hill districts are an interesting part of the country and definitely worth a quick read about their history. A large portion of the people who live there belong to various tribes, and I believe there is a higher percentage of Buddhists and Hindus than in most of Bangladesh. The most amazing aspect of Bandarban though is the landscape – it’s all hills and jungle green as far you can see. I couldn’t believe that we were just two hours away from Chittagong. I quickly fell in love and considered simply never leaving and letting Catie go back to our city apartment alone.

We hired a van to take the four of us (Polly, Denise, Catie & myself) out to the area early Thursday evening, and much to the discomfort of my motion sick girlfriend the trip didn’t take too long because our driver turned out to be an aspiring (and rather aggressive) race car driver. Once we arrived at our destination of Hillside Resort, we had a large dinner and then headed to bed. It was quite dark so we couldn’t see much of the resort or our surroundings as we walked from the restaurant building to our “tribal style” cabins. The bed was comfy though and had a funky bright purple mosquito netting.

When we woke up the next morning, we were absolutely delighted by the surprise view from our balcony. At first it seemed we were living in a cloud with tall mango trees poking up from below, but as time passed and the fog started to clear we saw more and more of a magnificent sprawling valley. As it turned out, our cabin was actually built on a hill and most of it was supported by tall stilts rooted in earth far below our feet (something which we did not realize in the slightest the night before).

Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)

Photo taken in Bandarban, Bangladesh on October 30, 2009.

I really loved our tribal cabin. Not only was the view magnificent and the bed comfortable, but the floor and walls were all made by some sort of wide bamboo weave so that in the mornings the room would stay dark but there would be little pinpoints of light all around you that looked like stars. The bathroom was rustic (and featured impressively cold water) but it was fully functional and pleasantly open-air with windows lining the top of the walls. I even loved the giant (and by giant I mean at least one foot long) orange-spotted gecko that lived on our cabin roof and once decided to hang out and wait for me in our bathroom (which admittedly did make me yelp and jump at first) before slinking back up the wall and outside through the window. I think our fat jungle gecko friend kept himself pretty busy too as there were hardly any bugs ever around our cabin.

We ate several meals at the resort and the food was always excellent, especially the breakfast which was prepared for whatever time we liked and consisted of everything from fresh papaya and bananas grown right on the resort’s land to homemade chapathi and dal to pancakes and veggie omelets. We ate quite well (and shocked the resort staff on a couple occasions with the sheer amount of food we ordered) which was good because most of our two days in the area was spent trekking up and down the hills of Bandarban (but more on that later here)!

Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 30, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 31, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 31, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 31, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 31, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 31, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 31, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 31, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 31, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 31, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 31, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 31, 2009)
Bandarban, Bangladesh (Oct 31, 2009)

Photos taken in Bandarban, Bangladesh between October 30-31, 2009.

Candles, kids, and a sacrificial goat

Sunday, October 25th, 2009

We recently celebrated the holiday of Diwali by visiting and spending a couple evening hours hanging out at a nearby Hindu temple. There was plenty to see (including a goat that mysteriously arrived at one point) and though there were a lot of people coming and going, the atmosphere felt very relaxed. We watched visitors to the temple light and place candles on the ground in a space open to the night sky for a while, and then we sat in the center of the temple and did a bit of people-watching. Unsurprisingly, it didn’t take long for us to be surrounded with people who were far more interested in us than the other way around. Catie, Denise, and Sarah were a hit with all the Bengali kids while I met and talked with a number of men (as it always seems to happen in this country). A few guys sat and spoke with me for quite a long time, and with the exception of a travel agent who would not stop pestering me, I enjoyed the conversation a great deal.

One of the young men I met was named Alpon, and though he couldn’t have been older than I was, it turned out he was actually a priest of the temple. His dad was a priest there as well and his little brother (who was playing “find the two taka bill” with Denise) will be too someday. Hindu priesthood is clearly the family business. Alpon told me about the holiday and explained what some of the celebratory things around us all meant (including the fact that the aforementioned goat would be sacrificed at midnight). He was very nice and extremely generous, offering sodas to us and insisting on paying for a few posters of Hindu gods that Catie and I were looking at on our way out.

I also happened to learn that in addition to his priestly title, Alpon has managed to become the self-proclaimed “pool champion of Bangladesh”. He told me that he’s usually at the billiards club around 4:00 pm, so I’m planning on meeting him there sometime (and taking that priest down).

Chittagong, Bangladesh (Oct 17, 2009)
Chittagong, Bangladesh (Oct 17, 2009)
Chittagong, Bangladesh (Oct 17, 2009)
Chittagong, Bangladesh (Oct 17, 2009)
Chittagong, Bangladesh (Oct 17, 2009)
Chittagong, Bangladesh (Oct 17, 2009)
Chittagong, Bangladesh (Oct 17, 2009)
Chittagong, Bangladesh (Oct 17, 2009)
Chittagong, Bangladesh (Oct 17, 2009)
Chittagong, Bangladesh (Oct 17, 2009)
Chittagong, Bangladesh (Oct 17, 2009)
Chittagong, Bangladesh (Oct 17, 2009)

Photos taken in Chittagong, Bangladesh on October 17, 2009.